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Slab Leak Reroute in Los Lunas: Abandoning the Under-Slab Line
The leak is under the slab and you're not keen on having the floor opened. Or this line has leaked before and you'd rather not go through it again. A reroute might be the answer.
Rerouting means leaving the leaking pipe where it is, disconnected, and running a new line to the same fixtures by a different path, usually through the walls or attic. The slab stays closed.
Chapter 1
Leaving the old line behind
The technician disconnects the failing under-slab run at both ends and caps it. That pipe stays buried and out of service. A new supply line is then installed above the floor between the same points, so the fixture it fed works as before.
A reroute can be as small as one line to one bathroom, or it can cover several runs. It's sized to the problem rather than the whole house.
Pipe reroute through the attic and walls
In most single-storey slab homes, the attic is the natural path. The new line rises through a wall near the water source, crosses the attic and drops down inside the wall behind the fixture. Attic lines are normally insulated and secured so they aren't left exposed to summer heat and winter cold.
Where an attic isn't practical, the line may run through interior walls, a closet or the back of a cabinet. The technician walks you through the proposed route before work starts, including where the access openings will be.
Chapter 2
Why the floor can stay closed next time
A spot repair fixes one break in an old pipe, and the rest of that pipe stays under the concrete. A reroute takes the whole run out of service, so a later failure on the old section no longer matters. That's the main reason people choose it, especially when a line has already leaked once.
It doesn't make the new pipe immune to problems. It does mean that if anything ever needs attention, it's above the floor and far easier to reach.
Openings in the drywall
Getting a pipe through finished walls takes a few access openings, typically where the line enters and leaves a wall. They're kept as small as the route allows.
Patching those openings can range from a basic patch to a full texture-and-paint match, and who does it varies. Ask what level of finish is included when you get pricing, so there are no surprises afterward.
Chapter 3
Slab leak reroute or spot repair?
Chapter 4
How a reroute day usually unfolds
Every job differs, but most follow the same broad order.
The work generally starts with a walkthrough. The technician confirms which fixtures the new line will feed, checks the attic or wall path and points out where each access opening will go. If anything about the route has changed since the quote, this is when you'll hear about it.
Next, the water is shut off and the old under-slab run is disconnected and capped at both ends. The new line is fed through the openings, secured along its path and connected near the source and at the fixture. In an attic, it's typically insulated and fastened as it goes.
Before anything is closed up, the new line is pressure tested and the fixtures are run to check flow and temperature. Then the openings are patched to the agreed finish and the work area is cleaned. You'll be shown where the old line was capped, which is useful to know if you ever remodel.
Planning a remodel in the next few years? Mention it. A reroute can sometimes be laid out to suit future changes, which saves a second round of wall openings later.
Chapter 5
Slab leak rerouting in Los Lunas homes
Many West Los Lunas homes are single-storey slab houses with roomy attics, which makes the overhead route fairly direct. Newer construction there also tends to have predictable wall layouts, so the path from water heater to fixture is often short.
Near the Village Center, older homes and later additions can make routing less straightforward. Low ceilings, flat roofs or rooms built at different times may mean the line runs through walls or cabinetry instead of an attic. The technician looks at how the house was built before suggesting a path.
In the meantime
- Glance at the meter now and then to see whether the leak is picking up.
- Hot-side leak? The cold supply valve on the water heater can be closed to slow it. Don't adjust the gas or electrical controls.
- If water surfaces anywhere, shut the main.
- Take pictures of the affected floor or wall for your records.
- Hold off on opening walls or floors to look for the pipe.
Smell gas? Leave the home and call the gas utility and 911 from outside.
Chapter 6
What people ask about rerouting
Every house is different. The technician can confirm what applies to yours.
It's a way of fixing a slab leak without repairing the pipe under the floor. The leaking line is disconnected and capped, and a new line is run to the same fixtures through the walls, attic or another above-floor path. The old pipe stays buried but carries no water. The fixture works as it did before, fed by the new line.
It depends on the situation. A spot repair may be simpler for a first leak on pipe that looks healthy. Rerouting is often favoured when a line has leaked before, when the leak is under something hard to remove, or when you'd prefer not to open the floor. The technician can price both so you can compare.
Usually up into the attic and down inside the walls to each fixture. In homes without a usable attic, lines can run through interior walls, closets or the backs of cabinets. The technician will show you the proposed path, and where any openings will be, before work begins.
A few small access openings are usually needed where the new line enters and leaves the walls. They're kept as small as the route allows. Ask how they'll be patched and what level of finish, such as texture and paint, is included in the price.
It depends on how many lines are involved, the length of the route and how easy the attic and walls are to work in. A single short run is a smaller job than several lines across the house. The technician can give you a better idea once they've seen the layout.
A properly sized new line shouldn't noticeably change pressure at the fixture. A longer route can mean hot water takes a little longer to arrive. If you have concerns about pressure or wait times, raise them during the walkthrough so the route can account for them.
Often, yes. Hot-side leaks are a common reason for rerouting, and it's possible to reroute only the hot line to the affected fixtures while leaving the cold line in place. Whether that makes sense depends on the condition of the cold line and the layout of the house.
Requirements for plumbing work vary and depend on the scope of the job. The technician will explain whether a permit applies to your reroute and what that involves. We don't make blanket statements about permits because the answer depends on your specific work.
It stays where it is. The technician disconnects it at both ends and caps it so it no longer carries water. Removing it would mean opening the slab, which is exactly what a reroute is meant to avoid.
Yes. Without a usable attic, the new line can often run through interior walls, closets, soffits or along cabinetry. The path may be less direct and involve different access points. The technician will look at how your house is built and suggest the most practical route before giving you pricing.
Leave the slab alone this time.
Find out whether a reroute fits your house and what it would involve.
Call before it gets worse